Chances are that if you are planning to visit Mount Rainier National Park in Washington, you will find one trail as the most highly recommended in the Park. That would be the Skyline Loop Trail. It's one of the most popular hikes in the Park, and it's easy to see why—you see a lot! Glorious views of Mount Rainier and its glaciers, alpine meadows, a kaleidoscope of colorful wildflowers (when they are in season!), waterfalls, rocky terrain, and streams. Plus, you will undoubtedly see marmots, squirrels, and chipmunks, among other creatures and critters.
As we planned our Labor Day weekend trip to the Park from Portland, we did a lot of googling and reading. Everyone and everything mentioned the Skyline Loop Trail, accessed from Paradise, as THE #1 hike to do. But with kids? Well, it became clear pretty quickly that no, this was not the best hike for most kids (and most definitely not for toddlers). We went back-and-forth about whether we should even try it with our kids, 5.5 and 7.5, because we worried about the seemingly inevitable "my legs hurt," "my feet are stuck to the ground, I can't move," or "I want to go back." If you enjoy hiking and you have younger kids, well, then you know what I mean here.
But it turns out we are idealists, romantics at heart. We decided we would try and see how far we got; after all, who knew when we'd be back—we are, after all, trying to visit all the national parks in the continental United States, so it might be awhile.
It got a bit dicey here and there, but WE DID IT! And it was totally worth it, though I'd definitely recommend some prior proper planning. So here are some tips and recommendations . . .
Hiking Skyline Trail Loop
As I mentioned above, by hiking the Skyline Loop Trail you will see a lot. Each section transports you to a new "world." And while, yes, we did it with a 5 and 7 ear old, this is not an easy hike. It is about 5.5 miles roundtrip, with about 1500' elevation gain. There is also very little shade. This is considered a strenuous hike, so it helps to be prepared. It is truly breathtaking, and I am not sure photos do it justice.
So here are some basic tips to help anyone who wants to do this hike, with or without kids.
When to go (season): if you are able to visit in the summer when the wildflowers are abundant, it's a lovely time to go. The downside is that everyone else wants to see them too. July and August are peak times to visit the Park, and most people are heading to Paradise.
When to go (time of day): Go early! If you aren't an early riser, you might consider trying it out to avoid parking issues and crowded trails. We went in early September, and the wildflowers were past their peak and there were still crowds, but it was much more pleasant. We got up super early to head into the Park via the Nisqually entrance; we like to avoid lines. We got into the Park straight away with our annual park pass, then drove about 30–40 minutes to Paradise. The lots were already filling up, but we nabbed a parking spot and headed to the trail. Even with our early start time, the trail was busy the entire day.
How to get to the Skyline Trail Loop: Your best bet is to enter Mount Rainier National Park via the Nisqually entrance, near Ashford. We stayed in a cute tiny house pretty much right next to this entrance (like a 4-minute drive, which was amazing). There is often a long line to get into the Park from this entrance, especially during peak travel times. Having an annual park pass does help with the process. Once you are into the Park, you will drive to Paradise. If you or anyone you are traveling with gets motion sick, please keep in mind that parts of the drive are windy. One of my kids was car sick each time we did this drive and we had to stop a few times. Once you make it to Paradise, you can try to get parking closer to the visitor center or lodge—or in other overflow parking lots just outside those ones. The trail is accessed near to the visitor center via the steps with the John Muir quote on them.
Is cell service available? That's a big NOPE. I basically had zero service anywhere in the park. If you need driving directions or information, make sure you have that before you realize you have no way of accessing it. Also: enjoy the freedom!
How long is the trail? It is a 5.5-mile loop (though I swear it felt longer at times). You gain about 1500' in elevation, which can feel tough at moments. It took us about 6 hours to do this trail (with multiple breaks to watch animals, rest, eat lunch, and break up some kid bickering).
What to bring: WATER! No seriously, bring all the water and then bring more. It is easy to get dehydrated on this hike. Plus, the weather can change rapidly. During our 6 hours, we had it all (except snow and sleet I guess...). Also, don't forget snacks (ALL THE SNACKS if you have kids), layers (it can very chilly quickly), a hat, a head lamp or flashlight, a camera, and hiking poles (if you are into them!).
Some tips for doing the hike with kids
First off, if the thought of doing this ambitious hike with kids terrifies you, then take solace in knowing that you can always just do a small portion of it! Maybe just do the section to Glacier Vista, which offers beautiful views of Mount Rainier and its glaciers. On that stretch we saw about a million marmots and chipmunks and squirrels, so my kids were pretty entertained. It is steep though.
Throughout the hike, we tried to come up with games to keep everyone occupied (marmot counting, anyone?). Looking for animals and insects was fun for them too—they even spotted a mountain goat! And we heard pika!
One of our kids would set markers off into the distance, then when we'd pass by one we'd all high five to celebrate the small accomplishment. Snacks are always a powerful motivator too.
Keep in mind that if you do do the entire hike, some areas are less stable then others. What I mean is, looser rocks under foot—so it's easy to slip. Hand holding is likely going to happen for part of this hike for safety.
What about bathrooms?
Not gonna lie—this isn't going to be the best part of your hiking journey. There are not a lot of options. There is one toilet on the trail (um, a pit toilet) at Panorma Point. The line was super long to use it. With kids, you might not be able to avoid using it. Make a point of using the very nice bathrooms at the Paradise Visitor Center before you attempt this long hike. (Remember, there is basically no shade—read, basically NO privacy on this trail).
Can I bring my dog?
Nope.
Is any part of this trail wheelchair accessible?
Yes! A small part of the trail is paved—the section that goes out to Myrtle Falls, near to the Paradise Inn.
Was it worth it?
100% yes. Though, I will say, my kids did start to fall apart about 5–5.5 hours into the hike. LOL. I busted out my best snacks at that point, but by then they didn't care. The promise of ice cream/soft serve at the Paradise Inn saved us. All four of us devoured our soft serve after the hike as we sat, sweaty and tired, rejoicing in our hiking triumph.
You can do this!
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